The results of the UK Butterfly Monitoring Scheme showed worrying declines for many species, including the Grizzled Skipper, which had its worst ever year (down 54% since 1976). It was therefore with some sense of apprehension that I set out to Merthyr Mawr in search of this charismatic butterfly. Merthyr Mawr is one of the few remaining strongholds in Wales for small, self contained colonies of this species. I last visited this site two years ago and recall finding a healthy colony of Grizzled Skippers playfully flying and basking in the late May Sun. Would I be so fortunate this time or would my return to Merthyr Mawr end in a vein attempt with nothing to show but a distant memory of the Grizzled Skippers’ former glory?

The car parking is situated near Candleston Castle on a clearing in the woods.

Merthyr Mawr Warren is a unique system of high, undulating sand dunes, between Bridgend and Porthcawl in South Wales. A limestone cliff has been buried by sand and the short vegetation that grows here provides an ideal habitat for the Grizzled Skipper. An unusual butterfly site because it is just a huge area of sand dunes and has fine panoramic views to Porthcawl in the west and Ogmore-by-Sea in the east.

Wonderful panoramic views of the coastline, sea and brilliant blue sky.

No matter what form of transport is taken, the drive is delightful as one travels across beautiful, picturesque country views, on narrow meandering roads, overlooking flowery meadows and flowing streams. It’s a lovely journey that’s particularly worth taking on a beautiful day in May. The car parking is situated near Candleston Castle on a clearing in the woods. From here the dunes are only a short distance away and they suddenly appear behind the shelter of the woodland. These dunes are so extensive that last time I feared getting lost within the labyrinth of wild, undulating pathways. This time I felt more confident although the climb up the steep warren was still strenuous and on occasions I found myself having to stop and take my breath.

From the car park the dunes are only a short distance away and they suddenly appear behind the shelter of the woodland.

As I climbed the steep sandy paths, through tufted grass, carpeted with Wild Strawberry and dappled with beautiful Wild Pansies I would stop to admire the wonderful panoramic views of the coastline, sea and brilliant blue sky that stretched out in front of me. It was hard work climbing but the beautiful, natural scenery more than compensated for the strenuous climb. Besides, I reminded myself that I was on a quest to find the illusive Grizzled Skipper and with a sense of focused determination plodded on.

Sandy paths and tufted grass were dappled with beautiful Wild Pansies and carpeted with Wild Strawberry flowers.

I remembered my first encounter two years ago with the Grizzled Skipper and  how surprised I felt. Would I be amazed this time? They say that one never forgets one’s first love and that no love can ever be the same again. There may be some truth to this but all experiences can be fresh if encountered with a child-like sense of awe and fascination. Perhaps, one can be rejuvenated through a union with nature and capture that ‘innocence of the eye’ so advocated by the romantic poets?

The Grizzled Skipper had its worst ever year (down 54% since 1976)

Can that sense of nostalgia ever be re-kindled? I see no sense in trying to relive the past and prefer to grasp the moment and live within the ever-changing present. The metaphor of the falling meteorite leaving behind its dwindling trace of light, comes to mind. As a child, I loved to marvel at the night sky and on clear nights would lie on my back in the hope of seeing a falling star. The comet was there one moment and gone the next and yet it left behind an indelible memory etched forever in my mind. I had no illusions that my encounter with a Grizzled Skipper could match the intensity of such awe inspiring feelings. Was that the point of my quest? My aim this time, was not to experience something new but simply to catch a glimpse of this endangered species. I wanted to be reassured that it is still breeding and that all is well with the world. Perhaps this feeling of reassurance and gratitude may not seem as electrically charged as that of discovering something for the first time but it’s nevertheless equally meaningful and profound.

With wings opened like satellite dishes, males like to bask in the sun before darting off at speed to attack a rival or court a female.

Grizzled Skippers are tiny butterflies that like to flutter over patches of bare ground, usually where Wild Strawberries grow. They are moth-like in appearance having a rather dense and stocky build when compared to the more graceful and delicate framework of most butterflies. However, what they lack in elegance is more than made up for in charisma. Like their equally plucky counterpart the French bulldog, they also have that cute factor that makes them so naturally endearing to our sentiments. Grizzled Skippers can therefore be highly entertaining to watch. Some can be seen lazily fluttering in damselfly-like fashion while others, like spitfires on dogfighting mission, can be marvelled performing acrobatic, aerial stunts. They are accomplished flyers and battles between rival males take the form of spectacular displays of flying skills. Males like to bask in the sun in favoured plants such as Wild Strawberry, Bramble or Bird’s Foot-Trefoil, before darting off at speed to attack a rival or court a female.

Male skipper perching on prominent perch, on the lookout for females.

Indeed, the male’s idea of a good time is not that different to that of male human teenagers on holiday in the Costa Del Sol. Instead of basking in the beach and then getting intoxicated with alcohol in their drunken and wild pursuit of females; a male Grizzled Skipper would much rather perch on a wild flower in hippy fashion, with wings opened like satellite dishes, before getting drunk on sucking nectar and then embarking in wild pursuit of unsuspecting females.

From this side-on, low-angle view, the Grizzled Skipper’s chunky and endearing features become more apparent.

Another creature that likes to bask in the sun while stretching its long body on a blade of wild grass is the Grass Crab Spider – Tibellus Oblongus. An awesome predator that along with Robber Flies poses a serious risk to the happy-go-lucky skippers. These spiders are veracious predators that paralyze their victims before sucking them dry. They can take on prey much larger than themselves and can be seen with legs outstretched along the length of a blade of grass while waiting to ambush their poor, unsuspecting prey.

Grass Crab Spider – Tibellus Oblongus, seen with legs outstretched along the length of a blade of grass while waiting to ambush an unsuspecting prey.

Not wanting to be too distracted I turned my attention away from the spider to once again concentrate on finding that illusive skipper. While diligently patrolling an area, I eventually found my first Grizzled Skipper or I’d rather like to think that it had found me! Our re-acquaintance gave me a huge sense of relief and satisfaction knowing that against the dwindling recorded numbers, this plucky and feisty character was not going to give in to adversity. It was great to meet my old friends the Grizzled Skippers again. With a tearful sense of joy I wished them good luck and with hope in my heart parted company.

For an account of my first visit to Merthyr Mawr please CLICK HERE.